Puglia Guide
Whitewashed towns, long lunches and the kind of days you wish would last a little longer.
Some places are best explored without too much of a plan.
Puglia is one of them.
A few days on the road, moving between quiet stone towns, winding streets and the Adriatic coast. Mornings that started with coffee, afternoons that turned into long lunches, and more stops for gelato than we could count.
Our route took us from Gravina in Puglia through Matera, Alberobello, Ostuni, Locorotondo, Monopoli and Polignano a Mare.
This isn't a guide to seeing it all. Just a collection of places, little discoveries and moments worth remembering.
This guide was written by Tjaša Ribič, the creative behind @goingplant. Follow her for more everyday inspiration, beautiful food moments and delicious plant-based recipes.
Our first stop, and perhaps the most unexpected.
Built along a dramatic ravine, Gravina feels a little rougher around the edges than the towns that followed. The old stone bridge, narrow streets and beautiful views make it worth a stop.
Less polished, less crowded and all the more charming for it.
One of the most memorable places of the entire trip.
Technically just outside Puglia, in the neighbouring region of Basilicata, Matera is a city unlike anywhere else. Ancient stone houses, endless stairways and narrow streets overlooking the famous Sassi.
The best way to experience it is to simply get lost. Especially in the evening, when the city lights up and everything feels almost cinematic.
Places we loved
Pomodoro & Penne
A memorable plate of orecchiette with pistachio pesto and peperoni cruschi — the traditional crispy peppers from the region.
Terrazza Cavaliere
Cocktails with a view. The perfect way to end a day of exploring.
And sometimes, all you need is pizza on a little Italian square.
A town that looks almost too picturesque to be real.
Alberobello is known for its trulli, the little white stone houses with conical roofs that make the town feel like something from a storybook.
It's certainly one of the busier stops, but wander away from the main streets and you'll find quieter corners worth exploring.
We stopped for a classic Italian aperitivo — Aperol, olives and taralli, the little savoury crackers you'll find almost everywhere in Puglia.
Simple pleasures.
The White City, and one of the prettiest places to wander without a destination.
Whitewashed walls, green shutters, blue doors and plants spilling over stone stairways. Every corner feels like a photograph waiting to happen.
Come for a slow morning and stay a little longer than planned.
Our favourite stops
Caffè Burro
For morning coffee, pastries, avocado toast and tomato toast.
Burgo Bistro
A lovely stop for an afternoon drink after wandering through the old town.
And in between, countless little streets and beautiful corners to discover.
Small, quiet and effortlessly beautiful.
Locorotondo sits above the Valle d'Itria, with perfectly kept whitewashed streets, flower-filled balconies and beautiful views over the surrounding countryside.
It's the kind of place where very little needs to happen.
A lemon sorbet, a few independent shops and time spent browsing local ceramics.
Look out for traditional dotted patterns and hand-painted pieces decorated with olive branches. The kind of souvenirs that feel worth bringing home.
Where the pace of the trip shifts towards the sea.
An old fishing harbour, white houses, narrow streets and the Adriatic just a few steps away.
Monopoli is made for long lunches and even longer walks along the waterfront.
Worth trying
Fresh seafood, of course. One particularly memorable dish was slow-cooked octopus with courgette sauce and crispy courgette chips.
And for something sweet, Gasparini — where we stopped for pistachio and nougat gelato.
A postcard-perfect ending to our road trip.
Perched on dramatic cliffs above the Adriatic, Polignano is best known for its beautiful views and the little beach of Lama Monachile, tucked between the rocks below.
But some of our favourite moments were the simplest ones.
Walking through the old town, stopping at viewpoints, wandering through the Sunday market and tasting our way through the local food stalls.
And the focaccia.
Possibly some of the best we had on the entire trip. My favourite was potato and rosemary, although the tomato and courgette versions were just as tempting.
For this trip, I brought along Vera in Dark Caramel and Camille in Black.
Two different styles, both easy to wear and effortlessly versatile. Vera was my go-to for days spent exploring, with plenty of room for everything I needed along the way. Camille was perfect for lighter moments, when all I needed were a few essentials.
From early morning coffees and long lunches to spontaneous stops and evening aperitivos, they both found their place in my everyday outfits.
Thoughtful companions for days that don't always go according to plan.
Not just the ceramics. Or another bottle of olive oil. But the Italian way of making time for the little things.
Morning coffee without rushing. Lunch that lasts a little longer. Wandering through streets without needing to know where they lead.
And the reminder that sometimes the best part of travelling is everything that happens between the places you planned to see.
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